What Are All the Parts for a Full Suspension Replacement? A Complete Guide

Replacing a full suspension mountain bike frame or rebuilding its rear end is a significant undertaking. Whether you're upgrading to a newer frame or refreshing a worn-out bike, knowing exactly which parts are needed prevents costly mistakes and downtime. This guide breaks down every component typically required for a complete full suspension replacement, from the frame itself to the smallest bearing.

The Frame and Main Structure

Frame (Front Triangle and Rear Swingarm)

The core of the replacement is the frame itself. Most full suspension frames come as a set that includes the front triangle (main frame) and the rear swingarm (rear triangle or stays). Some frames are sold as a frameset with the rear shock mounted, while others require you to transfer your existing shock or purchase a new one. When selecting a frame, ensure it matches your wheel size (27.5" or 29"), axle standards (Boost, Super Boost, or traditional), and intended travel. Frame material – carbon fiber or aluminum – will affect weight and ride quality.

Rear Shock

The rear shock is a critical part of the suspension system. Many full suspension frames are sold without the shock, so you'll need to choose one that fits the frame's eye-to-eye length and stroke. Common shocks include air-sprung (e.g., Fox Float, RockShox Deluxe) and coil-sprung (e.g., Fox DHX, RockShox Super Deluxe Coil). You'll also need to consider damping adjustments: compression, rebound, and sometimes low-speed/high-speed circuits. If you're replacing an existing frame, reuse your old shock only if it's in good condition and compatible with the new frame's linkage.

Linkage and Hardware

Linkage Pivots and Hardware Kit

Full suspension frames rely on pivots to allow the rear wheel to move. Most frames come with a hardware kit that includes pivot bolts, spacers, washers, and sometimes axle crush washers. These are often specific to the frame model. Don't assume bolts are universal – thread pitch, length, and head shape vary. Some frames use a main pivot bolt that requires a special tool or a specific torque. Order the exact hardware kit from the frame manufacturer.

Linkage Plates or Links

Some suspension designs (like virtual pivot point or single pivot) use separate linkage plates that connect the shock to the swingarm. These plates are often frame-specific and may be sold separately or included with the frame. If you're buying a used frame, verify that the linkage plates are present and not cracked.

Bearings and Bushings

Suspension Bearings

Every pivot on a full suspension bike uses either cartridge bearings or bushings. Cartridge bearings (also called ball bearings or sealed bearings) are the most common in modern frames. You'll need the correct number and size for each pivot location – often 4 to 8 bearings per frame. Bearings come in standard sizes (e.g., 6x12x4, 8x16x5) and are measured by inner diameter, outer diameter, and width. Some frames use custom bearings, so always check the frame's manual.

Bushing Kits

Less common but still found on some older or high-end frames are bushing systems (e.g., Igus bushings or Deltabushings). These require no grease and are press-fit into the linkage. If your frame uses bushings, you'll need the correct bushing set and possibly a bushing press tool.

Axles and Dropouts

Rear Axle (Thru-Axle or Quick-Release)

Your new frame may require a specific rear axle. Common standards include 12x142mm, 12x148mm (Boost), 12x157mm (Super Boost Plus), and 12x110mm (Boost rear on some fat bikes). The axle may come with the frame or need to be purchased separately. Also check if the axle uses a hex head, lever, or Torx interface.

Derailleur Hanger

A derailleur hanger (also called a replaceable hanger or dropout) is a small aluminum piece that protects the frame in a crash. Most frames include one, but you may need a spare. Make sure you get the exact model for your frame – hangers are not interchangeable between brands or even models.

Shock Mounting Hardware

Shock Eyelet Hardware

The rear shock attaches to the frame via eyelets at the top (trunnion or standard) and bottom. Many frames require specific shock mounting reducers, spacers, or bolts. For example, a trunnion shock uses a different bolt spacing than a standard eyelet. If your new frame is trunnion but your old shock is standard, you'll need a new shock or an adapter (though adapters are rare). Always check the frame specifications for shock mount width (usually 22mm, 25mm, or 30mm) and bolt diameter.

Cable Routing and Accessories

Cable Guides and Ports

Modern frames have internal cable routing for the dropper post, rear derailleur, and brake. You may need cable inserts or guides that slot into the frame openings. Some frames come with rubber grommets that seal the ports. If not, order the correct grommet kit.

Dropper Post Actuator (if applicable)

If your frame uses a stealth routing for the dropper post, you'll need the appropriate cable and housing. Some frames include a special internal routing guide that helps the cable pass smoothly.

Tools Required

While not parts, you'll need specific tools for a full suspension replacement: bearing press/removal kit, torque wrench, shock pump, and hex bits. Many frame manufacturers recommend torque values for pivot bolts – do not guess.

Common Pitfalls to Avoid

• Mixing hardware between frames – Bolts and spacers are rarely cross-compatible.
• Assuming shock compatibility – Always measure eye-to-eye length and stroke before purchasing.
• Forgetting bearings – New bearings are cheap; skipping them can cause creaking and poor suspension performance.
• Neglecting the derailleur hanger – A bent hanger ruins shifting; buy a spare while you're at it.

Final Recommendation

Before starting a full suspension replacement, create a detailed list based on your specific frame brand and model. Contact the frame manufacturer for a hardware part number list. Buy a complete hardware kit, new bearings (even if the old ones look okay), and a derailleur hanger. If you're not experienced with suspension assembly, consider having a local bike shop handle the bearing and shock installation. A properly executed replacement will give you a like-new bike without expensive dealer prices. Plan your budget: a full set of bearings and hardware typically costs $50–$150, while a new shock can add $200–$600. Invest in quality parts – your bike's performance depends on it.